Some 200 kilometers east of Jakarta, along the coast, beyond the rice town of Karawang, or 100 kilometers from Bandung along the Great Post Road, is the historic city of Cirebon. Cirebon was a Muslim city-state, another child of Demak's westward crusade in the early 16th century. Six kilometers north of the city is the holy Tomb of Gunungjati, the great Aceh-born warrior who also conquered, Banten and probably Sunda Kelapa (Jakarta) too, before he came to rule Cirebon for Demak. He is revered as one of the wali songo, the nine saints who turned Java to the true faith, and his grave is still a place of pilgrimage. Like Banten, Cirebon was a Javanese colony in a Sundanese area. It played an important part in the Islamization of Sunda, but in doing so became partly Sundanese itself. Its deviant Javanese dialect is full of Sundanese words; its music and dance are substantially Sundanese too. Unlike Banten, Cirebon fell prey to the expansion of Mataram under Sultan Agung, and ever since it has remained closely associated with Central Java, whose courts and arts it has emulated. Today it is the pesisir kliwon, the western rim of Java proper.

During Cirebon's vassalage to Mataram, one of its rulers, Girilaya, weakened the sultanate in time-honored Javanese fashion by dividing it between his sons. To this day there are two separate palaces or kraton: the Kraton Kasepuhan, for the sultans of the house of Sepuh, in the southeast of the city, and the Kraton Kanoman, for the Anom sultans, more
centrally located next to the market of the same name. The Kasepuhan houses a small, but worthwhile museum of roya memorabilia. The oldest part of the Kasepuhan dates from 1529; its sitingghil (pa vilion) features a Hindu-style split gate while elsewhere the use of Delft tiles is further evidence of the sultanate's eclecticism. In matters of religion, though, the Sepuh sultans were less flexible, as the impressive and equally old Mesjid Agung next door demonstrates. This grand mosque is built alongside the alun-alun (town square) in Javanese fashion, but it is uncompromisingly skewed towards Mecca; the Central Javanese would have left the building square and simply prayed diagonally once inside. The Kraton Kanoman, of later origin, is run-down, but atmospheric. Many other old buildings line Cirebon's tortuous streets; this is one of Java's better preserved towns.

Battered by the wars of its more powerful neighbors, Cirebon was taken under the muscular wing of the VOC in 1681. It staggered beneath the weight of Dutch exactions, - Cirebon corvee laborers even helped build Batavia's roads - but retained its importance as a trade port, thanks largely to its strong Chinese community. There is a fine old Chinese temple, the Klenteng Thiaw Kak Sie, near the harbor. The Chinese have made another unique contribution to Cirebon's artistic life; a Chinese architect designed the Taman Sunyaragi, a grotesque flight of fantasy in brick and plaster four kilometers outside town, on the southwestern bypass. Built in 1852, this extraordinary, honeycombed folly would come to serve as a pleasure palace-cum-hermitage for Cirebon's royalty, who were intent on following the royalty of Yogya and Solo in their flight from ignominious political reality into what quickly became a culturally tacky dream-world.

A happier artistic synthesis resulted from Chinese participation in the local textile business. Cirebon's renowned batik motifs are largely Chinese-inspired; swirling megamendung, rock designs, flying birds, even Chinese lions and dragons are used as decorative themes. The main batik centers are in the nearby, semi-rural villages of Trusmi, Kalitengah, Kaliwuri and especially Weru. Indramayu, a fishing village 50 kilometers to the north, also has its own strong batik tradition.
Unfortunately, during the 20th century Cirebon figured in the Indonesian imagination as nothing more grand than Kota Udang, the "Prawn City," after its best-known industry; the prewar Balai kota (town hall) features the crustacean as an unusual decorative motif. And recently, the town has experienced a kind of artistic renaissance as a center of the wayang topeng, masked dance-drama. At Linggarjati, 22 kilometers southwest of the city, Java's old masters acknowledged that times had changed by concluding their first diplomatic agreement with the Republic of Indonesia, in November 1946. Their successors have managed to maintain the resort in true Dutch style.

BANTEN
SERANG: Hotel Abadi, JL J. Sudirman 36-40, tel: 200641. Hotel Wisata Baru, JL Maulana Yusuf 16, tel: 200515.
MUSEUM: Banten Site Museum, JL Mesjid Banten Lama. Tue-Thu 8 am-2 pm, Fri 8-11, Sat 8-12, Sun 8 am-1 pm, closed Mon.

WEST COAST
CARITA: Mutiara Carita Cottages, JL Raya Carita, tel: 81756. Pelangi Kasih Cottages, JL Raya Carita, tel: 81686. Carita Beach Resort, JL Raya Carita, tel: 81127. Deslana Cottages, JL Raya Carita, tel: 81810. Guna Sangiang, JL Raya Anyer 38, tel: 81078.
ANYER KIDUL: Anyer Beach Motel, JL Raya Karang Bolong, tel: Jakarta 367594.
Ujung Kulon National Park: By charter-car from Labuhan to Taman Jaya, the park headquarters at the edge of the park. Regular, twice-weekly boats (& charters) between Labuhan and Taman Jaya. Boats run to the islands Handeuleum and Peucang. There are simple bungalows in Taman Jaya & Handeuleum Island, somewhat nicer ones on Peucang Island. Reservations & permits available from travel agencies.

BOGOR
MODERATE: Hotel Pangrango, JL Pangrango 23, tel: 328670. New Mirah Hotel, JL Megamenclung 2, tel: 328044. BUDGET Elsana Transit Hotel, JL Sawojajar 36, tel: 322552. Wisma Karunia, JI. Sempur 35-37, tel: 323411. Abu Pensione, JI. Mayor Oking 15, tel: 322893 Restaurants
Asinan Bogor, A Kapt Muslihat. Fortuna (Chinese & seafood), A Surya Kencana 130.

SHOPPING GONGMAKER: Pak Sukarna's, JL Pancasan 17. HANDICRAFTS: Batik Keris, JL Mercleka 6. Nusa Penicla, JL. Ir H Juanda. Kenari Indah, JL Bondongan Blok 30. PIP Dobbe & Son, JL. Kantor Batu 19. Additional shops in the pasar.

Museums / Gardens
Bogor Zoological Museum, JL Ir H. Juanda 2, tel: 322177. Sat-Wed 8 am-4 pm, Thu-Fri 8 am-3 pm. Bogor Botanical Gardens, JL Ir H. Juanda 11, tel: 322220. Daily 8 am-5 pm. Museum Herbarium Bogoriensis, JL Ir H. Juanda 22-24, tel: 322035. Mon-Thu 8 am-2 pm, Fri 8-11, Sat 8 am- 1:30 pm, closed Sun.

Tourist Information / Post Office
JL Ir H. Juanda 10, tel: 321350. Post office: JL. Ir H. Juanda.

Hospital A Raya Pajajaran, tel: 324080.

PUNCAK REGION
LUXURY: Bukit Raya, JL Raya 219, Cipanas, Cianjur, tel: 512505. Puncalk Pass, JL Raya, Sindanglaya, Cianjur, tel: 512503/4. Surya Indian Hotel, JL Gadog 11/45, Cipanas, tel: 512871.
MODERATE: Chalet Bali International, JL Raya Puncak, Cisarua, Bogor. Cibulan, Cibulan, Cisarua, Bogor. Sanggabuana, JL Raya 4-6, Cipanas, Cianjur, tel: 512227. Sinclanglaya, JL Raya 43, Pasekon Cianjur, tel: 512116.
BUDGET Kopo Hostel, JL. Raya Puncak 502, Cisarua, Bogor, tel: 94296. Pondolk Pemuda Cibodas, Cibodas botanical gardens.

RESTAURANTS
Countless restaurants, especially Sundanese fish restaurants, along main road (JL. Raya Puncak).

PELABUHAN RATU
LUXURY: Samudra Beach, Sangkawayana, Pelabuhan Ratu, Sukabumi, tel: 512505. Reserve at Hotel Indonesia in Jakarta, tel: 2301008.
MODERATE Pondolk Dewata, A Kidang Kencana 22, tel: 41022. Cleopatra Hotel, A Raya Citepus 114, tel: 41185.
BUDGET Karang Sari, JL Raya, tel: 41078.

BANDUNG
LUXURY: Kumala Hotel, JL Asia-Afrka 140, tel: 4205141. Hotel Panghegar, JL Merdeka 2, tol: 432286, fax: 431583. Savoy Homann, JL Asia Africa 112, tel: 432244. Royal Palace Hotel, JL Lembong 21, tel: 4208372. Grand Hotel Preanger, JL Asia Africa 81, tel: 431631.

MODERATE: Guntur, JL Oto Iskandardinata 20, tel: 4203763. Hotel Paniisan, JL Sukajadi 202, fel: 281114. Setiabudl Guesthouse, JL Dr. Setiabudi 191, tel: 212716. The Royal Dago Inn, JL Jr. H. Juanda 169, tel: 2502200. Catellya Guesthouse, JL Dr. Rum 12, tel: 431098. Edelweiss Guesthouse, J. Sukaiadi 206, tel: 282369. Hotel Endah Parahyan. gan, JL Raya Cibeureum, tel: 634934.
BUDGET Sriwencla, JL Ciliwung 7, tel: 273368. Los. men Sandara, JL Kebon Jati 51/713. Corner Hotel, J. Wastukencana 8, tel: 436871. Sakadarna International Traveler's Homestay, JL Kebon Jati; Gg. Babakan 55-57B, tel: 4218553.

RESTAURANTS
FOOD STALLS: mainly around alun-alun & on JL Merdeka and JL Haji Juanda.INDONESIAN: Babakan Siliwang! (Sundanese), JL Siliwangi. Bakmi Raos, JL, Kejaksaan 19. Dago Tea House, Pajajaran Universi- Campus, off JL H Juanda. Handayani (Javanese), JL, Sukajadi. Koja Sate House, JL Pasir Koja 1. Nay

GUIDEPOST: CIREBON
(snakes), JL Pasteur. Pakarjan, JL Pasir Kaliki. Sate Ponorogo, JL Jan Gatot Subroto. Ponyo (Sundanese), JL Malabar. Pak M Uju (Sundanese), JL Dewi Sartika 7A. CHINESE: Queen, JL Dalam Kaum 79. The Rose Flower, JL Jen Ahmed Yani 32. Tioen Kie, JL Jan Sudirman 46. Tien Tien, JL ABC 82. WESTERN: Tizis, Haji Juanda 14, near ITB campus. Bakeries & cafes are rare; a few on JL Braga.

Shopping
Local specialities include puppets, ceramics, leather goods. Craft shops at Pasar Baru, JL Braga, & JL Asia-Afrika. Sarinah (dept. store), JL Braga 10, has a handicrafts section. PUPPETS: Cupu Manik, Gang Haji Umar 2, near JL Kebon Kawung. FLEA MARKET: Pasar Jatayu, on JL Arjuna, 1 km from train station. DON'T MISS: the jeans shops on JL Cihampelas with their eccentric "Disneyland architecture."

Museums / Galleries / Zoos
Ceramics & Textiles Research Institute, JL A Yani 318. Museum Geologi, JL Diponegoro 57, tel: 2732055. Mon-Thu 9 am-2 pm, Fri 9-11, Sat 9 am-1 pm. Museum Konperensi Asia Afrika, JL Asia Africa 65, tel: 438031. Mon-Thu 8 am-1 pm, Fri 8-11, Sat 812. Museum Mandala Wangsit Siliwangi (military), JL Lembong 38, tel: 250393. Open weekdays. West Java State Museum, JL Oto Iskandardinata 638, tel: 250976. Tue-Thu 8 am-2 pm, Fri 8-11, Sat-Sun 8-12. Taman Sari Zoo, JL Kebun Binatang 7, tel: 282770. Open daily 9 am-5 pm.

Cultural Events
Yayasan Pusat Kebuclayaan (YPK), JL Naripan 7, city's cultural center: wayang golek Sat 9 pm-4 am, other performances weekdays. State Institute for Performing Arts (SSTI), JL Buah Batu 212, has some music & wayang performances. Flumentang Siang Theatre, JL Baranang Siang 1, Wayang golek Sat 9:30 pm - 4:30 am; wayang orang: Fri after 8 pm. Pak Ujo's, JL Padasuka 118, tel: 271714. Pasundan Restaurant (Hotel Panghegar), JL Merdeka 2, dance and music, with dinner, Wed & Sat after 7 pm. Sanggar Tari Purwa Setra, JL. Otto Iskandar Dinata 541A, nightly jaipongan.

Tourist Information
Bandung Tourist Office, Alun-alun, on JL. Asia Africa, tel: 256644. Mon-Thu 8 am-8 pm, Fri 8-11 am, Sat 8 am-2 pm. West Java Provincial Tourist Office, Diparda, JL Cipaganti 151, tel: 281490. Mon-Thu 8 am-2 pm, Fri 8-11 am, closed Sat & Sun.

Telephone
JL Asia-Afrika, near JL Oto Iskandardinata. Hospital
7th Day Adventist Hospital, JL. Cilharnpelas 161, tel: 282091.

Arrival / Transportation
AIR: Direct links to all Java airports, plus Denpasar & Palembang. Husein Sastranegara Airport is 4 km W
of town, by taxi or by bemo (Angkutan Kota) from bus station on JL. Kebon Jati. Airline offices: Garucla, in Grand Hotel Preanger, tel: 431782. Merpati, JL. Asia Africa 73, tel: 439774; Bouraq, JL. Champelas 27, tel: 437896.
RAIL: Many services to Yogyakarta, Surabaya (via Yogyakarta), Bogor & Jakarta (but not directly to Cirebon), from main train station.
BUS: Leuwi Panjang Bus Station, in S of city, for Bogor & Jakarta. Cicaheum Bus Station, 45 minutes out of town by berno from Kebun Kelapa, for Yogya & East.

PANGANDARAN
More than 50 losmen on the peninsula. More upmarket are: Sunrise Beach Hotel,tel: 639220, on E side; Surya Pesona Hotel, tel: 639428; Adams, tel: 639164, on W side.

CIREBON
LUXURY: Cirebon Plaza, JL. Kartini 46, tel: 2061. Patra Jasa Motel, JL. Tuparev 11, tel: 209402. Bentan!, JL. Siliwangi 69, tel: 203246.
MODERATE: Grand Hotel, JL. Siliwangi 98, tel: 205457. Aurora, JL. R.A. Karlini 27, tel: 204541. Niaga, JL. Kalibaru Selatan 47A, tel: 206718.
BUDGET: on JL. Siliwangi: Famili, no. 66, tel: 207935; Priangan, no.108, tel: 202929. Elsewere: Asia, JL. Kalibaru Selatan 15, tel: 202183. Cordova, JL. Siliwangi 87, tel: 204677.

Restaurants
Canton, JL. Pagongan 8A, tel: 202967. Kentjana (Sund.), JL. Karang Kencana. Kopyor, JL. Karanggetas 9, tel: 204343. Maksim (seafood), JL. Bahagia 45, tel: 202679. Sinar Budi (Padang), JL. Karanggetas 20, tel: 3846. Jumbo Seafood, JL. Siliwangi 191, tel:: 203606.

Shopping
BATIK: Batik Permana, JL. Karanggetas 16, tel: 205156. GKBI (batik cooperative), JL. Pekarungan 33. Out of town (high quality): H Mohammed Masina, Trusmi, near Weru. Cirebon topeng masks: Pak Kandeng, Suranenggala village, on road to Gunungjati's grave.

Museums
Museum Kraton Kasepuhan, JL. Kasepuhan 37, tel: 204001. Open daily 9 am-4pm.
Tourist Information
Tourist information, JL. Dr. Ciptomangun Kusuma 1.
Post Office Post office, JL. Yos Sudarso.

Arrival / Transportation
Train station, JL. Siliwangi; long-distance bus station, Kuningan, 5 km S of city.