Every year, Java's north coast advances imperceptibly seaward. Semarang owes its growth partly to the fact that it has not suffered as badly from the creeping mud as old rivals further east. When the Europeans first arrived, the greatest trading ports of Java were not Banten, Jakarta, Cirebon and Semarang, but obscure places, now almost forgotten by the world, on the curve of coast between Semarang and Surabaya.

DEMAK MOSQUE
Demak, whose fleets once conquered most of the coastal kingdoms of Java and founded the rest - is now stranded 12 kilometers from the sea. Apparently founded by a Chinese Muslim, Demak was Java's first Islamic state and first exponent of jihad. In the late 1520s, it snuffed out the last fading embers of Majapahit's glory and became the first Islamic link in the chain of Moslem dynasties through which Solo and Yogya trace their legitimacy back to the ancient Hindu empire. Tradition has it that four of the engraved pillars of Demak's Mesjid Agung Mosque were brought from the Majapahit court. Certainly they are very old, although the remainder of the building was completely rebuilt in 1845 and again in 1987, when then-President Suharto presided over its reopening. This is Java's most holy mosque; traditionally, seven pilgrimages here during the annual feast of Garebeg Besar are supposed to be worth one complete hajj to Mecca.

Even more interesting is the mosque at Kudus, which is of pure pre-Muslim design. Not only are the split gates reminiscent of a Balinese temple, but the redbrick minaret in front is so similar to a Hindu kulkul (gong tower) that it may actually have been one. "Kudus" is a corruption of the word al-Quds, meaning Jerusalem; the only place in Java to have an Arabic name. The mosque, which bears the date 1549, is known as al-Manar or al-Aqsa, after the one in Jerusalem. It was founded by Sunan Kudus, who is said to have been the head of the mosque at Demak before he moved here. Sunan Kudus is one of the wali songo, the "nine saints" who are given popular credit for the Islamization of Java. His carved, curtained grave behind the mosque has been a revered shrine for 400 years. The old port area of northeastern Java is also the homeland of anther wali; Sunan Kalijaga, is buried at Kadilangu, about two kilometers south of Demak.

The domestic architecture of Kudus is more Middle Eastern than its mosque, with high, whitewashed, windowless streetside walls. Many of the female population work in the town's clove cigarette factories. The rich, sweet scent of kretek smoke was first introduced in the 1890s, and only started to make converts on a large scale in the 1920s; yet now it seems a timeless and essential part of Indonesia. Kudus was the first center of the kretek industry. Its cottage producers lost out to new factories elsewhere after the war, but the big Chinese-owned Djarum plant has regained much of the evergrowing market from Kediri-based Gudang Garam.

Jepara comes closer to remaining a port than Demak or Kudus, but still misses the sea by a couple of kilometers. In the 16th century, ships from China, Burma, India, Persia and Arabia moored in its now vanished harbor and its own navy besieged Portuguese Malacca three times. Today it is a quiet, rather isolated place, best known for its woodcarvings in teak and mahogany.

The most famous child of this part of northern Central Java is Raden Ajeng Kartini, Indonesia's foremost national heroine, whose birthday is celebrated as "Kartini Day" on April 21st.

Born in 1879, in Mayong near Kudus, where there is a commemorative monument, Kartini was a daughter of the Regent of Jepara, who allowed her to attend European school at a time when most Javanese aristocrats found female education unacceptable. Her wholehearted enthusiasm for the ideals of Ethical Policy
dumbfounded even the Dutch themselves. In moving letters later published as Door Duisternis tot Licht (Through Darkness to Light), she expressed in lucid Dutch her desire to bring education and emancipation to Javanese women. Kartini died tragically at 25, a few days after the birth of her first child. Her life and works are celebrated in Jepara at the Museum Kartini di Jepara, and in Rembang, where she spent her single year of married life, at the Museum Kartini di Rembang. She is buried near the old mosque in Mantingan, 19 kilometers south of Rembang, on the road to Blora.

A few kilometers east of Rembang is the little-known batik center of Lasem, where 50 small factories produce handdrawn designs, often floral in theme, for sale in Surabaya. The industry is controlled by the Chinese, who have been here for seven generations, and it resembles a 19th-century southern Chinese town.

Though separated from the historic coastland by only a low range of chalk hills, the Lusi river valley has always been one of Java's backwaters. This is almost the last place where one can see the rare wayang form called krucil or klitik, which uses flat, toy-like wooden puppets. At the beginning of this century, the villages around Blora were the scene of an extraordinary type of anticolonial resistance movement. An illiterate peasant named Surantika Samin founded a nativist religion stressing family and village loyalty, rejection of the money economy, and passive resistance to any form of external authority. Fueled by resentment against forestry regulations in this teakgrowing area, the movement spread; taxes remained unpaid, schools unattended. The Messiah himself was exiled in 1907, but seven years later his followers were still keeping Dutch troops busy and Saminism survived into the 1960s. Museum Grobogan, near Purwodadi, contains historical, ethnographic and handicraft exhibits from this area.


DIENG AND GEDONG SONGO

DIENG PLATEAU
Accommodation
Several small losmen and a restaurant on the plateau, but many prefer to stay in Wonosobo, 1 hour down the mountain.

WONOSOBO
Accommodation
MODERATE Surya Asia, J1. J. A. Yani 137, tel: 22292. Sri Kencono, J1. J. A. Yani 81, tel: 21522. Nirwana, J1. Resimen 18/36, tel: 21066. BUDGET. Citra, J1. Angkatan 45, tel: 21880. Wisma Duta, J1. R. S. U. 3, tel: 21674. Widuri, J1. Resimen 18144.

Restaurants
Dieng Restaurant, J1. Angkatan 45/37. Asia Restaurant, J1. Angkatan 45133, tel: 21165.

GEDONG SONGO
Usually visited from Semarang, but nearby Bandungan has several hotels. You can see other historic sites on day excursions from Yogyakarta.

AMBARAWA AND MAGELANG
Museums
Railroad Museum, J1. Stasiun, Ambarawa. Daily 8 am-5 pm. Museum Palagan Ambarawa (military), J11. Major Sugiopranoto, Ambarawa. Daily 7 am-6 pm. Museum Diponegoro (Prince Diponegoro Memorial Museum), J1. Diponegoro 1, Magelang, tel: 2308. Sun Wed 8 am-2 pm, Fri 8-11, Sat 8 am-1 pm, closed Thu. Museum Soedirman (General Sudirman Memorial Museum), J1. Ade Irma Suryani C7, Magelang. MonSat 8-12, closed Sun.

YOGYAKARTA
Accommodation
LUXURY. Ambarrukmo Palace, J1. Adisucipto, tel: 588488/588984. Garuda, J1. Malioboro 60, tel: 566353. Mutiara Hotel, J1. Malioboro 18, tel: 563814. Purl Artha, J1. Cendrawasih 9, tel: 563288. Sahid Garden, J1. Babarsari, tel: 587370. Sri Manganti, J1. Urip Sumoharjo, tel: 2881. Sriwedari, J1. Adisucipto, km 5, tel: 588288.

MODERATE.On J1. Prawirotaman - Airlangga Hotel, no, 6-8, tel: 372829. Sriwijaya Guesthouse, no. 7, el: 371870. Wisma Indah Guesthouse, no.16, tel: 376021. Duta Guesthouse, no. 20, tel: 372064. Metro Guesthouse, no. 7171, tel: 372364. Rose Guesthouse, no. 22, tel: 377991. Arjuna Plaza, J11. Mangkulbumi 48, tel: 513063. Gajah Mada Guesthouse, J1. Bulaksumur, Gajah Mada university

campus, tel: 563461. Hotel Mendut, J1. Pasar Kembang. Pure Jenggala Guest House, J1. Cendrawasib 2, tel: 512238. Indraloka Homestay Service, J1. Ck Ditiro 14, tel: 513614, arranges boarding with Indonesian families. Yogya International, J1. Adisucipto 38, tel: 564727.

BUDGET. Mostly in travellers' ghetto S of train station. Gang 1: Beta Losmen, Lucy Losmen, Hotel Jogya, Dewi Homestay. Gang ll: Bagus Hotel, Ghandi Los. men. Ratna Hotel, J1. Pasar Kembang 17A, tek 561851. Hotel Kota is at end of J1. Pasar Kembang on J1. Gandekan Lor. South of J1. Pasar Kembang: Hotell Asiatic, J1. Sosrowijayan 6. Indonesia Hotel, J1. Sosrowijayan 7. Intan Hotel, J1. Sosrokusuman 1116. Prambanan Guesthouse, J1. Sosrokusuman 18/20, tel: 5 13303.

Restaurants
FOOD STALLS: Along J1. Malioboro, late-night gudeg, sate & sop kaki kambing (goat-foot soup) stalls.
INDONESIAN: Ayam Goreng Nyonya Suharti, (fried chicken) J1. Adi Sucipto 208, tel: 515522, J1. Solo (beyond Ambarrukmo Palace Hotel). Juminten (Javanese), J]. Asem Gede 22, Kranggan 69. Bu Citro (Javanese), J1. Adisucipto, near airport entrance. Warung Makan Sederhana, J1. Mangkubumi 6113, Sinar Budi (Padang), J1. Mangkubumi 41. CHINESE. Moro Senang, J1. Solo 55 (beyond airpod). Sintawang, J1. Magelang 9. Tiong San, J]. Gandekan 29, a block W of Malioboro.

TOURIST SPOTS:
Indo-western eateries in losmen area S of station. Favored are Superman on Gang 1 & Anna's on Gang 11. Better and pricier approximations to western food at Leglan Garden Restaurant, J1. Perwakilan 9 (corner J11. Malioboro/J1. Suryatman).

Shopping
Pasar Beringharjo (city market) off J1. Yani/Malioboro. Art & Craft Centre in Pura Wisata, J1. BrigJen, Katomso.
LEATHER GOODS: Many shops are on J1, Malioboro, eg Toko Setia, nos. 79 & 165.
WAYANG KULIT PUPPETS: Ledjar, J1. Mataram D. N. 1370 (E of Malioboro). Mulyo Suhardjo, J1. Taman Sari 37B (W of Winongo river). Swasthigita, J1. Ngadinegaran MD 7/50 (oft J1. Panjaitan, S of kraton).
SILVER (Kota Gede): Tom's Silver, J1. Kota Gede 3. 1A. MID Silver, J1. Keboan, Kota Gede.
ANTIOUES & CURIOS: Many shops on J1. Malioboro, incl. Toko Asia, and in Taman Sari area. For higher prices, but more reliable antiquity: Jul Shop, J1. Mangkubumi 29. Ardianto, J1. Pejaksan 21.
BATIK. Hundreds of outlets. Fixed prices at Terang Bulan, J1. Ahmad Yani 76. Two dozen factories around J1. Tirtodipuran, S of kraton, sell cap (printed) batik. Taman Sari/Bird Market area is center for cheap batik painting; for more expensive originals, see 'Art Galleries."

Museums / Zoos

Biology Museum of Gaiah Mada University, J1. Sultan Agung 22, tel:514011. Mon-Thu 8 am-1 pm, Fri 8-11, Sat & Sun 8-12. Museum Dirgantara Mandala (air force), Adisutjipto Air Force Base, tel: 513647-9. Mon-Thur 8 am-1 pm, Sat & Sun 8-12, closed Fri. Yogyakarta Kraton Museum, tel: 512036. Sat-Thu 8:30 am-1 pm, Fri 8:30-11. Gembira Loka Zoo, J1. Gembira Loka. Daily 7 am-6 pm. Museum Perjuangan (national history), J1. Sugiyopranoto 24. Tue-Thu 9 am-1 pm, Friday 9-11, Sat & Sun 9-12, closed Mon. Museum Pusat TNI Angkatan Darat (military), J1. Jen Soedirman 47, tel: 586417-8. Mon-Thu 8 am-1 pm, Sat & Sun 8-12, closed Fri. Museum Sasana Wiratama, Tegairejo, tel: 513068. Daily 7:30 am-6 pm. Museum Sasmitaloka Panglima Besar Jen Sudirman, J1. Bintaran Wetan 3, tel: 512663. Mon-Thu 8 am-1 pm, Fri 8-11, Sat 8-12, closed Sun. Museum Sonobudoyo, J1. Trikora 3, tel: 512775. Tue-Thu 8 am-1 pm, Fri 8-11:30, Sat 8-12:30, Sun 8-12, closed Mon.