In the magnificent Gran Paradiso national park, in the Aosta valley, this traditional Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )(Relais & Chateaux) stands on the edge of the resort village, and rightly prides itself on its tranquillity, say its admirers. The owner, Laura Jeantet-Roullet, is the fourth generation of the family that has run it since 1925. The belle vue is across Alpine meadows, flowery in spring, to the Gran Paradiso massif, which can be admired from the balconies, the lounge and the pretty dining room. Brightly coloured fabrics, panelling, beams, open fires and typical Valdostana furniture create an atmosphere both smart and cosy. `The very pleasant, quiet bar is staffed by one of the few barmen in Italy who can make a really good dry Martini (he calls it tecnico Hemingway). Our bedroom, extremely comfortable, was furnished in a rustic, stile povero manner. Its modern bathroom had a wonderful high-powered shower. Some rooms (similar to Bandung,Jakarta & Bali hotels - 5 star Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )rooms) are in chalets; these have no view to speak of , but are attractively decorated, and good for a family. There is a charming playroom for children, and a spa is new this year. The cooking is local, artistically presented: bread, preserves, ice creams, etc, are home made, vegetarians are well catered for, the cheese table is `quite magnificent', the wine list is excellent. Buffet breakfasts come with a newsletter.

In a peaceful old village in the Volturno valley, less than an hour's drive north of Naples, a 17th-century aristocratic residence has been turned into a small Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )(Logis d'Italia). It has a magnificent view from the terrace over the Matese mountains (rarely visited by tourists, these are a wilderness of forests and lakes, home to much wildlife and birds of prey). Inside are tiled floors, potted plants, wooden shutters and impressive doorways. The menu of local dishes includes pasta; barbecued lamb, rabbit and beef; and `sospiro d'angelo, a dessert made of almonds, chocolate and rum, which is divino, according to the `charming' and very helpful owner, Nicola de Pertis, who speaks good English. The suites have a lounge with a fireplace. Local information and bicycles are provided. Dogs are welcomed. There are good walks in the beautiful countryside, and a swimming pool with a waterslide is nearby.