In village near Pyrenean foothills, 27 km SE of Foix, 3 km SW of Lavelanet: Jean-Jacques Benet's brand new restaurant-with-rooms (similar to Bandung,Jakarta & Bali hotels - 5 star Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )rooms), well designed in unostentatious contemporary style. Superb food (Michelin star, 15 Gault Millau points, for, eg, fillet of sea wolf with artichokes) served in lovely light dining room. Good breakfast with home-made pastries. Lawns: outdoor dining, swimming pool.

This historic little town, across the Rhone from Avignon, has a splendid charterhouse and other noble buildings, including this 14th century priory, now a luxurious Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )(Relais & Chateaux). Owned by Marie-France Mille, and managed by her son, it was liked by a family in 2002: Francois Mille presided diligently and charmingly, ever helpful. Dinner is serious: an army of waiters and waitresses, Madame firmly in charge. Serge Chenet, the chef for many years, wins a Michelin star, 16 Gault Millau points, for variations on Provencal dishes, eg, grosses langoustines aux artichauts violets et brandade; 4roelloni d'aubergine et panisse. The menu did not change other than in detail, but there were enough choices for our difficult trio to enjoy all meals. The fine dessert trolley is praised; also the array of lame-made breads. The old building, approached on foot down a long rose arbour, contains reception, salons and dining room, all Arming, with some antiques; but its bedrooms (similar to Bandung,Jakarta & Bali hotels - 5 star Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )rooms) are quite small. The 70s annexe may be out of character with the rest, but it has large dining of quality, many with a balcony. In the big flower-scented garden there is a spacious pool and a shady dining patio. Great comfort, amazing attention to detail. A varied buffet breakfast. Some train noises at night.