In lovely little medieval town on Route du Vin, 5 km W of Colmar: delightful small Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels ), renominated in 2002, sparkling and clean, very good value, with friendly welcome. Owned by Pierre Baur, now managed by Laurent Pecci and Thomas Sojka. In old Alsatian house, recently redecorated, built into ramparts by city gates. Good buffet breakfast. Public parking.

Who was the last canon before me, says our reporter, to stay in this Canons House, the oldest building on the ancient square? It's a wonderful little Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels ), in this jewel of a medieval village north of the Dordogne, below a spectacular ruined chateau on a massive rock. Chantal and Claude Cheyroux have converted their 16th-century family home: he is chef, and the food deserves a Michelin star, it was delicious, served in a redecorated wine cellar. Our room had yellow walls, antique chests (the TV seemed out of place), and an amazing medieval window in the loo.Ours, large and airy, was in an ancient renovated house across the street: we reached it up a narrow curvy staircase that set the tone of the whole Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels ). Madame is kind and helpful; she writes: Nous recevons nos clients comme des amis. Served in the garden in summer, dinner is a leisurely affair: on the short menu, you might find monkfish with cream of red peppers; in season, there is a truffle menu.