A lovely chateau on the road to the fine Roman remains of Les Antiques (Glanum) and to the mental home where Van Gogh spent a year after cutting off his ear in Arles. It has belonged to the wealthy Mistral-Bernard family since it was built - in the 19th century. Managed by a very nice lady, Mme Cartier, it can hardly have changed since it was turned into a Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )thirty years ago, says a recent visitor. It is a treat, with bags of character. Lots of little salons, amazing trompe l'oeil murals. In the big garden, we had a large breakfast on pink tablecloths.' Others enjoyed the marble-floors, the tapestries, and the loungers round the sizeable swimming pool.

The Bengtsson family has dedicated its group of three Stockhoi--b hotels (see also Lady Hamilton) to the memory of Lord Nelson. Tr:s former potato shop in the Old Town is the flagship (Relais & Chateaux. crammed with nautical memorabilia. A letter from Nelson to Lac Hamilton is displayed in the lobby; her portrait by Romney hancf outside the Trafalgar Room; figureheads abound. `The decor is idrcsyncratic, eminently suitable for a port city, was one comment. Each bedroom (most are small) commemorates a sea captain from the greac age of sailing ships. Public areas have chandeliers, antiques, beamez ceilings: the lobby was redecorated this year. A friendly young staff runs the Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )in laid-back style, The bistro/bar serves an excellen: breakfast; also drinks, snacks and meals. The smart Leijontornet restaurant (built around the ruins of a 14th-century fortified tower) has a good-value table d'hote menu each night; fish is a speciality. Ther; is a new chef this year, Per Nilsson, and we would welcome reports his cooking. A collection of 18,000 silver coins, discovered beneat floorboards in 1937, is on display in the Coin Museum nearby. Ideal ., situated for sightseeing. But though the Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )is in a traffic-free area - a busy road system is nearby.