Near Palencia, Ampudia is a small agricultural village with a mighty ieval fortress. Here, the Garcia Puertas family have converted ir historic home, a listed 17th-century abbot's house, into this luxury Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )(Relais & Chateaux). One of the four brothers was the itect. This bold venture was admired in 2002: `An extraordinary uxture of ancient - beams, antiques, an old wine-press - and ultra modern stainless steel washbasins and a spa bath in the bathroom. Guests may need a user's manual for the latter and the over-ingenious lighting system which was reluctant to supply illumination in the middle of the night. In our agreeable suite, the comfortable sitting was supplied with champagne and pastries. In the restaurant (once the wine cellar) the chef uses local produce to create surprises. A good buffet breakfast in a winter garden with tables made of sewing machines. Staff were charming if a bit stressed. Verdict: a few glitches: could become a jewel.

A 500-year-old farmhouse, with wooden beams and floors, beneath the ruins of a castle and abbey in an old Pyrenean village not far from Andorra; it is a Residencia Turismo Rural, run by Antonio Borras Vives and his wife, who promise `tranquilidad absoluta. They are delightful and keen to please, says a recent guest. Our room was adequate and pretty. Dinner was very good (casserole of rabbit; creme_ Catalane). Good value. An excellent breakfast (with hams, warm croissants and pastries) is served in the garden, once the threshing floor. Nearby are a lake, fields of wheat, and olive and almond trees - the area is a paradise for fossil-seekers, and there is plenty to do outdoors; trekking, rafting, etc. The owners blue-eyed husky took us for a walk before dinner. Guests pets are welcome too.