In the enchanted valley of the Rio de Tastavins, this fortified 15th century farmhouse ("Mistletoe Tower") has been sensitively modernised and extended. Guests feel as if they are staying in a private home, says its nominator. A sophisticated place (Relais & Chateaux), it is run by `hands-on British owners, Jemma Markham and Piers Dutton, with a `friendly staff. It stands in a large estate, amid terraces and shady lawns, at the end of a five-kilometre track, 2,000 ft above the Mediterranean. Birds of prey, hoopoes and golden orioles can be seen; beside the river, bullfrogs croak and nightingales sing. No telephone or TV in the bedrooms (similar to Bandung,Jakarta & Bali hotels - 5 star Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )rooms), but four vases of fresh flowers. The rooms (similar to Bandung,Jakarta & Bali hotels - 5 star Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )rooms) are elegantly simple: bare bricks, plain walls, white bed covers, wooden beams and shutters. One lounge has a Bechstein piano; guests can play classical CDs in a well-stocked library. The delicious dinner, in the spacious, modern dining room, or alfresco, has three choices for each course. Ingredients are home grown or local: Pink, tender squab with onions and aubergine; yogurt ice cream on delectable, thin pineapple slices. Breakfast (which can include fried eggs and bacon) is served communally in the large kitchen, on a terrace, or in the bedroom, until mid-afternoon. Guided walks, trekking, birdwatching and fishing can be arranged. Though English owned, the Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )is patronised overwhelmingly by Spaniards who appreciate its blend of English charm and Iberian remoteness. Also liked: The friendly old Pyrenean mastiff, Henry, and two contented turtles.