A simple, modern, three-star Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels ), low and pink-walled, which stands amid fields looking towards the Sierra de Guadarrama; very peaceful yet just off the main Madrid to Burgos road. Recent visitors enjoyed dining on the terrace, looking at the mountains as the sun set, while listening to cowbells. A simple but tasty meal, helped by a recommended Rioja. Local dishes include Castillian soup; pig's trotters stuffed with ham and mushrooms (similar to Bandung,Jakarta & Bali hotels - 5 star Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )rooms). There's a lounge with open fire, a large high-ceilinged rustic dining room. The owner, Luis Uteyza, speaks good English; the extended family are much in evidence. Nearby are skiing, climbing, mountain biking, historic pueblos.

A Michelin-starred Hotel ( Jakarta Hotels )/restaurant, in an old town north of Zaragoza. A reader discovered it by chance: The welcome was reserved and formal, but any worries that the place might be stuffy were swept away by our huge, comfortable room overlooking the main street. The bathroom had everything you could want, and a shower big enough for a family. The furniture was solid, mercifully lacking the chain-store touch so often found in larger hotels. In the restaurant [with green furniture and huge fig trees] we were given a multi-language food dictionary. Owner/chef Enrique Martinez is proud of his southern Vavarrese cuisine. The set menu included a wonderful starter of tomato, bread and garlic; then came marinated tuna; foie gras; salt cod; dessert, petits fours. Many guests were locals, all very relaxed, and w-ine-buyers visiting the family's vineyards. Breakfast has breads, cakes, fresh fruit, cooked dishes. Our overnight stay, including drinks, cost under £100.